Wildlife, Brakes and Unmet Friends

P-Rock – Wanting to Stop

Day 8 – Buckinghorse River, BC to Liard River,BC

(Sorry, forgot to take an odometer photo today... here's a substitute for you (We're northbound)

Today was a day of extremes to say the least. Upon waking up at Buckinghorse River we discovered frost – yes frost – on July 8th. Fortunately for us the frost was short lived and by the time we rolled out for our 300 mile day it was already up to 50 degrees. As we mosey’ed on over across the street for gas we encountered our first rude discovery – many gas stations up here only carry regular gas. But, but, our bikes need premium! Well we did what we had to and our trusty steeds did not complain one bit about the bad feed. One unsettling thing happened on the way into this gas station however. I noticed that I had NO, yes NO rear brake. After a quick test I figured out that I could pump it and get some rear brake, but in a panic situation I would be left with front brake only. Fortunately on the Alcan there isn't a whole lot of stopping going on....

Once we got up to Fort Nelson Blackie and I did a little investigation and discovered that I had a cut in my rear brake line and was almost out of fluid. We purchased some fluid and with the help of the local NAPA dealer in Fort Nelson, fashioned a patch that was still holding at end of day today.

Another extreme we encountered today was the scenery. We had to pass through the highest point on the Alaska Highway (4200 feet I believe) at Summit Lake in the Canadian Rockies. There was still snow on the peaks, and the wind was howling, but what a sight. Words and pictures just cannot describe it – and for you followers of this blog I implore you to travel this road sometime in your lifetime. And I mean in any sort of vehicle from a motorcycle to a car to a motor home. I am telling you that this is by far one of my best experiences sampling what we have to see, hear, smell , feel and taste on this planet. You just can’t imagine it until you see it firsthand.

Now this is where things got a little eerie. Before we left I had chatted a bit with a gentleman (Scott) from Eagle River Alaska who is on the same BMW internet forum as we are. Scott and his wife Mary Jo were going to be heading south on the Alcan at the same time we were headed north, so we more or less casually said that if we see each other we’d stop and say hello. Well today when Blackie and I were stopped at one of our few stops for scenery pictures, along rolls in this BMW LT with Alaska plates, matching the description Scott had given me earlier. As the couple stepped off the bike I yelled “Scott” and he returned a “Pete?”. Once you see the highway you’ll have a better sense of how crazy of a chance meeting that was.

Next, the wildlife. And I mean wildlife. How about 7 bears (all black), 7 Caribou, a dozen sheep (Dall sheep I believe) and a Bison. It’s hard to describe what it’s like to round a corner to see these majestic wild creatures just off (or in some cases on) the road.

Lastly, the construction. Lots of it. These Canucks really know how to tear up a road when needed. Patches? We don’t need no stinkin’ patches! We’ll just rip it up and start over or chipseal right over the failed section plus or minus a few kilometers. They do this in a big big way - even to the tune of having pilot cars to guide lines of traffic through the construction areas. We’re talking the broadway show of road construction.

We rolled the last 40 miles into Liard River in a 44 degree rain – it has rained every day now. Blackie and I headed for the much needed dip in the hot spring and then dined on the very limited Liard menu. Well once again we have no phone service, and additionally no internet, phone or even a TV today. I am pretty sure we’ll have connectivity tomorrow though, so you’ll be reading this at that time.

P-Rock, screeching to a halt.