Da Bears

P-Rock - Blown to Smithereens

Day 21 - Bell 2 Lodge, BC to Smithers, BC via Stewart, BC and Hyder, AK


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This day could not have been better. I know Blackie and I continue to write a blog full of superlatives, but - and incredibly so - each day just seems to get better. Today we started out from the Bell 2 Heliskiing Lodge in BC - about 1/2 day ahead of schedule. Our plan was to stop in and see Stewart, BC and Hyder AK. Hyder is known as the most southern city in Alaska - and pretty much looks like a wild west town. What we learned from the Canadian Customs officer is that Hyder has NO - and I mean NO law enforcement. There is no local constable, there is no state police presence, and if law enforcement is needed the RCMP (Royal Canadian Mounted Police) in Stewart have been granted authority to cross the border to handle matters in Hyder until Alaska State Police can fly in (by float plane) to Stewart from some 120 miles away. It really and truly appears that Hyder has been completely abandoned by both the United States and the State of Alaska. Amazing. In fact, there is no US Customs requirement to enter Hyder! You have to pass through the Canadian station on the way out, but as far as the US is concerned, this isn't territory to be protected.

So after a nice lunch in Stewart, Blackie and I went into Hyder and took a look around. Really not a whole lot to see in town, mind you. First, there's the "Bus", which reportedly has the best seafood anywhere. Anyone in Hyder will tell you that. Then there's the Glacier Inn - which is famous for "Hyderizing" anyone who wishes to do so. Yours truly and Blackie did this deed, of course. It involves doing a shot of 151 proof Everclear Grain Alcohol, with the stipulation of "No Sipping, No Smelling, and No Backwash" - We both were able to handle that assignment with all the Pennsylvania grace and honor we could muster.

Then we went up into the Tongass National Forest, which is famous for it's Salmon Run and the bears that fish there. We talked with several people that had been there for weeks - YES - WEEKS - in Hyder and had only seen a few bears. Well we got to see three of them. The first grizzly was fishing from a distance from the viewing deck and didn't give us good photo ops. However then a black bear and a grizzly bear (both apparently 3 year olds or so... the 'bottom of the barrel' in bear heirarchy) decided to stroll down to check out the salmon. Well the black bear caught wind of the grizzly at the same time the grizzly caught wind of the black. Mr. Black hightailed it out of there and the grizzly just moseyed on around for awhile before making his exit. It was quite thrilling to see, and we would have missed this second scene except the rangers held us up from leaving because they were crossing the road. Pretty cool stuff if you ask me.

We then proceeded on down to Smithers, BC which is on the Yellowhead Highway. Not a lot to report there, other than the scenery continues to be spectacular. I have no idea how many Glaciers we saw today, but it was a lot.

Tomorrow, on to somewhere east, we're really not sure yet.

P-Rock - GO BEARS!